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Mexico
updated 1/2007

2007 Upates: All US citizens entering mexico must have a US Passport to get back in - go get one.

Mexico is a vast and diverse country with hundreds of miles of beautiful beaches, high mountains, small pueblos, and huge cities. In fact, Mexico City is the largest city in the world. Moreover, the best thing in Mexico is not a place, it is the marvelous culture. Mexico is an extremely large country and you could easily spend months just traveling through the different regions. Don't expect the countries below Mexico to be more of the same, because they are not. Each country is distinctively different with its own culture and traditions. Enjoy the differences and respect each country for what it is, a unique expression of humanity.

Take some time and talk with the people, you will enjoy what they have to say. This book will take you down the entire Pacific Coast of Mexico and then through the mountains of Chiapas. The drive that is outlined in this guide offers detailed information on: Guaymas, Mazatlan, Puerto Vallarta, Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo, Acapulco, Puerto Escondido, Puerto Angel, Tuxtla Gutierrez and San Cristobal de Las Casas. You will see so many fantastically exquisite places in one trip that you will wonder why you hadn't taken this trip earlier.

Border Locations, US - Mexico
There are several border entry sites between Mexico and the United States. If you are coming from anywhere in the west, southwest or northwest, the best entry location is Nogales, Arizona. You may also enter at Tijuana or Mexicali. Once in Baja you have two choices: (1) Travel Mex. 2 southeast to Santa Ana and pick-up Mex. 15 for the trip down the Pacific Coast; or (2) travel the 1,610k down the length of Baja California and then take a ferry to mainland Mexico at Santa Rosalia, La Paz, or Los Cabos.

Immigration & Customs
United States and Canadian citizens need only a Mexican Tourist Card for entry into the country. The paperwork for the Mexican Tourist Card is processed in the immigration office at the customs checkpoint. You must provide the immigration-customs officer with a proof-of-citizenship document. This is either a valid passport or a certified birth certificate (photocopies are not accepted unless certified by the proper issuing authority).

Mexican Tourist Cards are issued from 90 to 180 days. You need to present this to the customs officer in the customs building (oficina de aduana). The Mexican Tourists Cards are free, however I was told by the official in the immigration office that I must pay $6 for my Mexican Tourist Card.

Driving Through Cities
Most of the roads in Mexico go directly through cities and towns. Once you are in a city you must find your way through the city and on to your next destination. Find a large truck or bus that is transiting through the city and follow it. Trucks and buses move through the city and on to the highway using the most direct route. Thus providing a personal guide out of the city and on to the major highway.

Additionally, following large obstructing vehicles through the city provides cover for your gringo...I am a target...license plates and essentially the large trucks hide you from plain view. Obstructed, the city policeman, sipping his cold Corona, can not easily see your vehicle. By the time you pass his perch he rarely notices your smiling gringo face.

Nogales, Arizona - Mexican Border


Driving Time: 0 hours
Kilometers: 0
Miles: 0

Initially you need to cross the border between the United States and Mexico. The officials at the border point will most likely look through your vehicle nonchalantly and then send you down the road to the main inspection area which is located outside of town.

The customs building is located about 24k past the main town on the outskirts of Nogales, drive directly out of town and follow the main road towards the city of Guaymas

Learned Lessons
The regulation in which the officer claimed I had unlawfully broken was that I had in my possession more that two forms of recreational equipment. I was carrying my mountain bike, surfboard and a set of weights. The provision on the holy wall stated that travelers may only carry two forms of recreational equipment; thus, travelers that feel threatened by this provision are advised to contact the Mexican embassy before departing the US for further information.

Special Directions
Process your Mexican Tourist Card at the immigration office first and then proceed to the customs office - the two offices are located next to each other but the officials operate separately. The border checkpoint is not the place to process your documents, you must continue past the town of Nogales Once past the customs checkpoint. follow the signs to Guaymas

Nogales, Mexican - Guaymas& San Carlos


Driving Time: 6 hours
Kilometers: 421
Miles: 261

Guaymas is a good stopping point for the first night. There are camping facilities in San Carlos and plenty of hotels in Guaymas San Carlos is much smaller than Guaymas and more aesthetically appealing. It is located about 5k before Guaymas

As you enter San Carlos there are several camp sites and trailer parks on both sides of the road with shower facilities and hookups for RV's. Don't forget your bug juice, the mosquitoes in San Carlos are the size of humming birds.

In the previous section daytime driving only is recommended. The following is a description of my nighttime escapade and I provide it as an example of why you should not drive at night:

Because of all the time that I had lost during the aduana fiasco in Nogales, I decided to make some time up and drive at night. Yes, I broke the first rule of driving in Mexico on the first night of my trip - perhaps I was fortunate to learn my lesson early. While driving through the coastal town of Guaymas, at approximately 3:00 am, I was pulled over by three policemen that suggested I had run a stop sign. I knew I was in trouble when I looked in my rear view mirror and saw a nice new Chevrolet pickup with police lights and three smiling faces.

If you have ever been pulled over by the police in Mexico you know that most police cars are several decades old and look as if the policemen push-start the vehicles to get to work in the morning. Albeit, when I saw this 2007 truck I figured that I would be the next contributor to that months truck payment. 'Infraction Senor, please show me your documents.' Though I objected and refuted the point that I had run the stop sign, I wasn't about to argue with three men with guns on an empty street at 3:00 am.

They were quite suggestive that since I had made an error that the Commander, driving of course, must be compensated for the infraction. The Natural Law Of Propina strikes for the third time in 12 hours. I went to my special reserves for this payment. See the section on Helpful Hints for details.

Guaymas - Obregon


Driving Time:1.40 hours
Kilometers: 125
Miles: 78
Hwy: 15

This stretch of highway extends into the mountains utilizing a road in good condition. The driving is straightforward without too much confusion. Once you leave Guaymas follow the signs for Obregon and Navojoa.

While I was driving along this section I was really tired and thus I pulled off to the side of the road, in the middle of a mud pit, for some shuteye. I slept for about three hours, after which I was awoken by the federal highway police. They said something indecipherable over the intercom and sounded their siren until I popped my head out of a window of my truck. I waived, smiled and said, "buenos dias." After several minutes of debate between the officers, they must have decided that it was too early to get dirty for some propina, they drove off, my luck was finally changing.

Learned Lessons
In retrospect, stopping in deserted areas is probably not too safe. Though in a long journey there are times when Mr. Sandman will not cooperate with the personal desire to continue driving. Therefore when you stop for a sojourner always stop at a gas station, restaurant or other luminous and populated location.

Obregon - Mazatlan


Driving Time: 8 hours
Kilometers: 668
Miles: 415
Hwy: 15

I had some bad vibes on this road. I stopped at what appeared to be a federal inspection station, (some of the upper states have inspection roadblocks when entering or leaving the state - however, I didn't run across any in the lower states after Puerto Vallarta), two men looking somewhat official came to my passenger-side door and opened it. After some introductions one of the two men opened the glove compartment and started rummaging around.

By this time I realized that this so-called official was not so official, thus I ended the conversation. However, this individual had already taken my flashlight and was thanking me for the regalo (present). I noticed that the other gentlemen standing around all had guns strapped to their sides, for this reason I gave the so-called present without objection.

As a side note, the toll road before Mazatlan is the best road of the entire trip and also the most expensive. Most tolls in Mexico cost between $2 and $4. However, this road cost $20. There is talk that this road is full of banditos because of the remoteness of the area.

AAA has issued an advisory on this stretch of road and lists it as one of the most dangerous in Mexico. You have the option of a free road. Turn left before the toll road at Guamuchil, thus bypassing the toll road. This takes you through a much more populated area then the pay road, although it takes longer, it is considered safer.

Learned Lessons
Sometimes you can be overcautious. At no other time did anyone of official status approach my vehicle from the passenger side. Most, if not all, federal officers will have some kind of identification or a distinguishable uniform. Use caution and common sense and never pull over unless solicited by an official.

Special Directions
When you enter Mazatlan head toward the coast and you will find both camping and hotel facilities. Most hotels have guarded parking, notwithstanding, always take your valuables into your room with you. You might want to stay a day or two here, the beach is beautiful and the night life is especially good. Upon leaving follow the signs for Puerto Vallarta. You have a long day ahead so plan to rest well the night before your departure.

Mazatlan - Puerta Vallarta


Driving Time: 8 hours
Kilometers: 462
Miles: 287
Hwy: CA 15 & CA 200

Do not take the coastal road to Puerto Vallarta, it is the worst road of the entire trip. There is a fork in the road about half way between Mazatlan and Puerto Vallarta, stay on the road to Tepic and proceed to Puerto Vallarta via this route. I asked one of the highway police which was the shorter route at the fork in the road and the officer said that the coastal route was shorter. He failed to mention that there are about one hundred speed bumps and potholes.

The coastal route is about 100k shorter, however the roads are horrible and you pass through about 25 small towns. You are better off going to Tepic and than on to Puerto Vallarta. Note that just before Puerto Vallarta the time changes from Mountain Time to Central Time, add one hour.

Puerto Vallarta is a great town, you might want to take a short break here. Next to the restaurant La Pachanga is a guarded place for your vehicle and your belongings. You want to keep your eye out for places that offer board for vehicles as you enter these cities, in Mexico they are called pension para coche. Sometimes you can find a hotel that has gated storage or enclosures for your vehicle, but if you can't find a hotel there are usually gated lots that provide security for holding vehicles during the evening.

If you have a newer vehicle, or you are carrying a lot of nice things that you don't want to lose, always find a secure place for your car otherwise you may have nothing to return to in the morning. Pay the extra $3 or $4 for vehicle storage, it's worth it!

Puerta Vallarta - Ixtapa & Zihuatangjo


Driving Time: 12 hours
Kilometers: 651
Miles: 405
Hwy: CA 200

This potion of the trip is the most beautiful, the most dangerous, and entails the longest and most demanding driving. Dangerous because you are traveling through the mountains of Michoacan and the roads wind, twist and turn for the majority of the trip. You can expect your average speed to be between 40 and 50 miles per hour for the entire journey. Don't drive any faster! There are animals, potholes and speed bumps galore. Nevertheless, you will see some of the most awe inspiring coastline of the entire voyage, the beaches are radiant, powerful and peaceful and never seem to end.

This trip took me 12 hours with stops to use the bathroom and fill my gas tank only. I drove the last three hours of the trip in the dark. There are dangerous curves and extremely deep potholes that sneak up on you at night. If you have to drive at night, proceed with great caution.

Zihuatanejo is a relaxing coastal town with pleasant people, smiling faces and good food. Find a hotel with night security and good visibility. Enjoy the town and the beautiful bay, you deserve a break after the long drive from PV. Ixtapa is an expensive resort town located about 2k north of Zihuatanejo, its worth the hike or taxi ride to check out the beaches and night life.

About 1k outside of Ixtapa you will encounter a separation for Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo. If you are a high roller, take the road to the right into Ixtapa. Budget travelers should continue south along the main route another 5k into Zihuatanejo. At some point when you enter town you will need to exit the main throughway that runs through Zihuatanejo. Turn right and follow one of the several side roads down the hill which will take you to the beach.

If you encounter a small traffic circle veer right at the second exit and this takes you directly to the coast. There is an assortment of hotels situated near the ocean at economical prices.

Ixtapa & Zihuatangjo - Acapulco


Driving Time: 4 hours
Kilometers: 290
Miles: 180
Hwy: CA 200

Leaving Zihuatanejo proceed up the hill out of town on to the main throughway. Follow the signs to Acapulco, you're still on CA 200. Going into Acapulco is a nightmare. The roads are horrible, the traffic is horrendous and there are literally thousands of people crammed into this coastal town. Nevertheless, there are many things to do and an endless amount of sun, fun and adventure.

Getting out of Acapulco is an art in itself. Pay close attention to these directions or you will get lost. Head south and up the hill, if you are near the beach you must drive up, up and away. Follow the signs for Mexico 95, this is the road to Mexico City and your passage to freedom. Once you work your way through the myriad of confusion you will come to an expressway that dissects the city. Get on the expressway and follow it south, follow any signs that display Mexico 95. Eventually you will see a sign for Pinotepa National, noted Pinotepa N. on the sign. Follow this road, this is the one you want for CA 200. Follow the signs to Pinotepa and then on to Puerto Escondido.

Acapulco-Pinotepa Nacional-Puerto Escondido


Driving Time: 8 hours
Kilometers: 389
Miles: 242
Hwy: CA 200

Okay, your on your way to Pinotepa National. When you first leave Acapulco the sensation is one of confusion as to whether your have chosen the correct road because there are no signs and you will pass through several small towns. Yet if you turned off the main highway and followed the Pinotepa N. sign you have nothing to fear except for the fact that the roads are wicked for several hours after Acapulco, but after Pinotepa they improve greatly. This is a straightforward drive, about 8 hours with lots of potholes. Please be careful if you drive at night, read about my nocturnal adventure in the Learned Lessons section.

Hotel & Eats
In Pinotepa Nacional there is the Motel Carmona right at the entrance to the city. The place is always full and the big doors are shut tight until the morning. There is a cafeteria located at the motel. Time permitting, walk downtown and spend some time in the central part of the city, it is largly inhabited by indigenous Indians and it is a fantastic place to pass the time.

Puerto Escondido
PE is a great coastal town and those with some extra time might want to check out the gorgeous beach at Puerto Angel, about 45k south of Puerto Escondido. These are some of the most beautiful beaches in southern Mexico. If your not a strong swimmer you'll want to be extra cautious while swimming at Puerto Escondido. The surf is strong and the undercurrents are intensely powerful, it is know as the Mexican Pipeline. This is a popular surf location, I urge you to spend some time here whether you surf or not, it is a truly magical locale.

Hotel & Eats
Puerto Escondido has may nice hotels and restaurants, just look around and you won't go wrong. When you first enter town you will come across may roadside hotels. For the same price you can stay in a beach-front bungalow for $10 - $15 US dollars per night.

Learned Lessons
Use extra precaution, you're now in the state of Oaxaca. Just outside of Pinotepa National I was followed for several miles, the car behind me shone an extremely bright spotlight at my vehicle as I left the town. Needless to say, I was concerned that I was in danger, it was 11:00 p.m. on a Friday night and I was in the heart of Oaxaca driving alone. My Toyota pickup reached elevated speeds and made perilous corners that I thought were only possible in a small sports car. Well, the Gods were good to me on this evening. The car following me had a stroke of bad luck after several miles and thankfully something rendered the car useless. In my rearview mirror I saw smoke spouting from the "bad guys" engine compartment. I can honestly report that I didn't travel at night for the remainder of the trip!

A Fork In The Road
At Puerto Escondido you may follow the coast to the Guatemalan border or you may enter from the mountains near San Cristobal de Las Casas. If you are not returning with your vehicle to North America you must travel to the border entry points at Talisman or Cd. Hidalgo in order to process your Mexican vehicle paperwork.

Special Directions
Fill your tanks in Acapulco, I almost ran out of gas before I made it to Pinotepa Nacional and I had an eighteen gallon tank. This particular area has almost no regular gasoline stations, be forewarned. For those that are desperate for gasoline, there are private enterprises along the route which will fill up a gasoline container at a cost 50% higher than normal.

Puerto Escondido-San Cristobal de Las Casas


Driving Time: 8 hours
Kilometers: 647
Miles: 402
Hwy: CA 200 & CA 195

After leaving Puerto Escondido the roads are bad, in fact, from Puerto Escondido to San Cristobal de Las Casas they are extremely bad. This is a confusing drive so follow these directions and your maps carefully. You want to head for Salina Cruz and then for La Ventosa. At Salina Cruz the road changes to CA 185 for a short distance and then to CA 190, do not use CA 200 as a reference.

Most signs after Salina Cruz read both CA 185 and CA 190. The road forks at Tapanatepec, CA 190 leading to San Cristobal de Las Casas and CA 200 leading to the cities in the south: Tapachula, Ciudad Hidalgo and Talisman. For those traveling to San Critobal de Las Casas follow the signs to La Ventosa and then on to Tuxtla Guitierrez. After entering Tuxtla Gutierrez veer right and follow the signs to Chipa de Corzo and then to San Cristobal de Las Casas.

Puerto Escondido-Tapachula-Talisman or CD Hidalgo


Driving Time: 9 hours - 2 hours from Tapachula to the border

Those individuals driving the coastal route should drive south from Puerto Escondido toward Tehuantepec on CA 200. You want to head for Salina Cruz and then for Juchitan and Arriaga. Stay on CA 200 and head for Tapachula and the border, see the map in next section. You can enter the border at Talisman or Cuidad Hidalgo. The drive along Highway 200 to Tapacula is picturesque. Beautiful scenic country, and an excellent road make this a pleasurable drive.

Learned Lessons
Sleep well the night before you cross the Guatemalan border, the officials have a reputation for complication, bureaucracy and indolence. If possible cross the border in the morning and allow yourself most of the day to deal with the crossing. Tapachula is the last city before you cross into Guatemala and you will find several excellent economical hotels. If you arrive in

Tapachula late in the afternoon stay the night in Tapachula. The reason is twofold. Primarily, you never know how long your border crossing will take and therefore you should avail yourself plenty of time. Secondly, if you are delayed at the border until dark you will have to travel deep into Guatemala before finding accommodations for the evening. Consequently, if you are forced to drive in the evening you may encounter the military or other undesirables while driving.

Guatemala is not Mexico and the two countries have nothing in common. There are far fewer tourists driving through Guatemala then Mexico and the possibility of encountering guerrillas is still probable - in this context the word guerrilla does not refer to the animal, it refers to the people with guns and lots of military-looking equipment.

A Fork In The Road
At Puerto Escondido you may follow the coast to the Guatemalan border or you may enter from the mountains near San Cristobal de Las Casas. If you are not returning with your vehicle to North America you must travel to the border entry points at Talisman or CD Hidalgo in order to process your Mexican vehicle paperwork.

Special Directions
Continue south out of Tapacula to either Talisman or Ciudad Hidalgo, both are entry points into Guatemala. Talisman is a smaller border crossing area with Ciudad Hidalgo being the major commercial entry point into Guatemala.

San Cristobal de Las Casas-Cuauhtemoc


Driving Time: 2.5 hours
Kilometers: 170
Miles: 106
Hwy: CA 190

Driving in San Cristobal de Las Casas is very agitating. There are several hotels on the out-skirts of town and everything is within walking distance of the center. A good place to sleep is The Maya. As you enter town, The Maya is located about two blocks past the Pemex station on the left. There are two big iron gates at the front, which are closed at night and avail excellent security for your vehicle.

Leaving San Cristobal de Las Casas, follow the signs for Comitan out of the city and on to Cuauhtemoc. Cuauhtemoc is located on the border of Mexico and Guatemala. Fill your tanks at any gas station you come across. When you see the iron gate across the road you are at the Mexican - Guatemalan border.

Hotel & Eats
The Maya costs 80 pesos, has hot showers and friendly service. There are plenty of great restaurants in San Cristobal de Las Casas. You are in for a gastronomic delight!

At Puerto Escondido you may follow the coast to the Guatemalan border or you may enter from the mountains near San Cristobal de Las Casas. If you are not returning with your vehicle to North America you must travel to the border entry points at Talisman or CD Hidalgo in order to process your Mexican vehicle paperwork.

Special Directions
If you're at Cuauhtemoc and you need to process your vehicle paperwork, head back towards Comitan and catch CA 211, follow the signs to Huixtla. At Huixtla go south on CA 200 and cross the border at CD Hidalgo or Talisman.

Departing Mexico

Kilometers: 690 - 150k from Tapachula to the border
Miles: 428 - 106m from Tapachula to the border
Hwy: CA 200 - Guatemalan Border

Aduana
Checking out of Mexico is easy. Present your paperwork to the guard at the guard station immediately before the border. You won't miss the border, there is an iron gate blocking your entry into Guatemala. There are no signs, hence, just look for the gate. This is a very informal border crossing compared to the others and is worth the extra couple of hours drive. When I arrived at the border I was the only car crossing, no lines and no hassles. The Mexican official will check your papers, ask you the usual questions, take a quick look through your possessions and then let you proceed.

Servico International de Fumigacion
Before leaving Mexico the fumigation police will spray your vehicle with a horrid smelling chemical. Of course there is a nominal service charge. You will need the fumigation certificate on the Guatemalan side of the border, don't throw it away. After fumigation, which takes about 5 minutes, you are permitted to enter Guatemala.

Currency Exchange at Border
There are always several black market currency exchangers located at the borders. You can't miss them because they are the only people holding large amounts of cash in plain view in Central America. You may exchange only enough to get you through the border and on to the next town or you can exchange enough money for your whole trip. If your plan is to travel through Guatemala directly to Honduras or El Salvador, it is best to change a sufficient amount of money for the complete day. There is no need to spend time trying to find and exchange money just to save a few cents. The rates are usually lower at the border, but on the other hand it's hassle free exchange. Latin American banks complicate foreign money exchange and most take their time when exchanging gringo money. Even though black market exchangers are illegal, officials won't hassle you when you exchange money with the exchangers.

Returning To U.S.
When you return to the US - Mexico border, before you cross, go to the Mexican vehicle check point. The officials will direct you to a Banjercito (Mexican Army Bank) office. Turn in your Temporary Import Permit and Vehicle Return Promise Agreement as well as your Tourist Card (FMT). Your vehicle security deposit will be returned or your bond agreement, depending on which method you used to enter. Of course you can just drive across without the formalities, and it's the simplest thing to do. But remember they do hold a bond on your vehicle. To avoid problems, take care of this before leaving Mexico or it will come back and haunt you. If you sell your vehicle in Mexico or forget to clear your credit card security you will be charged the value of your vehicle. What's your credit card limit?

Special Directions
When you return to Mexico several of the forms you used to originally enter Mexico can be used for your return trip. For example, the Tourist Card (FMT) and your vehicle security deposit allow multiple entries. These documents can be used for your return trip without getting new ones. If there is any doubt, check with the Mexican Consulate. You may purchase Mexican insurance for the return trip in Tapachula, located near the border.

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