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Nicaragua is picturesque, from the jagged lava-rock beaches to the gigantic
lake in the south that houses the worlds only fresh water sharks. After
years of war and internal conflict, present day Nicaraguans simply want
to live in peace. Most Nicaraguans are willing to share their experiences
and viewpoints about the conflicts of the past and yet they are eager
to move ahead into a more prosperous and cheerful future. Tourism in
Nicaragua is less common than in her highly popular neighbor Costa Rica.
The natural beauty of Nicaragua is attractive and as the war years fade
into memory's dusty shelf, you can expect to see more development and
tourism within the country.
This is the largest country in Central America, but you can drive through
it rather quickly. Essentially there is only one major highway running
through the country and therefore the chances of getting lost are dramatically
reduced. There are several police checkpoints along the road. This usually
means that two police officers have been dropped off somewhere along
the main highway. They stand by the side of the road and wave cars over
to conduct their officiating. When pulled over the police ask for your
papers and destination and then send you on your way. These procedures
seem to be uniform throughout Central America.
Entering Nicaragua
After going through the official Honduran border gate you will pull up to the
official Nicaraguan border gate, about 50 yards away. Here the border officials
enter your passport number into a book. No charge! Though the officials may
request a private donation for their work. You will soon learn that everyone
will ask you for money in Nicaragua.
Three Border Crossings
Between Nicaragua and Honduras there are three border crossings; Las Manos
(near Ocotal), El Espino (near Somoto), and Guasaule between El Triunfo (Honduras)
and Somotillo (Nicaragua).
Aduana and Migration
The Aduana and Migration offices are located another 50 yards down the hill
in a semicircular building. When you enter the building several teenagers will
request your paperwork. They will show you some official badge which supposedly
gives them the right to guide you through the paperwork and to freedom. The
officials will search your car and then record all the necessary vehicle information.
For example, they will check your vehicle identification number on your engine
and record it in your vehicle paperwork. After two hours of confusion and frustration
you will leave with the following paperwork and pay the following fees: Certificado
de Vehiculos $40 US, Exclusivo Para Moneda Extranjera $20 US and Tarjeta De
Turismo $5 US. The second two items must be paid for in US DOLLARS. No exceptions!
If you do not have US dollars you will lose money in the exchange with the
border exchanger - don't forget to purchase enough money to transit through
the country.
Learned Lessons
I'm not sure whether the $40 US I paid for the Certificado de Vehiculos was
valid, I think this went into someone's pocket. I asked several officials
and never got a straight answer. Be prepared, these are the games that border
officials like to play. I was also solicited several times for propina by
a number of the officials at the Nicaraguan entry point. I was suspicious
about the $40 US fee and keep referring to this payment and therefore I was
never coerced into paying anything additional.
Special Directions
Bring US currency for your entry into Nicaragua, $35 US. Also check your forms
for proper entry and exit dates. If you plan on staying for more than 3 days
you can request a 30 day permit for your vehicle and person. There is no
additional cost for the thirty day permit. The police treat tourists differently
than they treat people solely in transit and if you decide to stay for more
than three days you won't have to deal with extending your visa.
Driving Time: 3 hour
Kilometers: 200
Miles: 121
Hwy: CA 1
The roads in Nicaragua are the worst of any in all of Central America. As mentioned
above, it is difficult to get lost because CA 1 is really the only major road
running through the country. Follow the signs to Managua, if you find any.
Depending on how long the border entry and exit procedures take, you
can make it through Nicaragua in one day. Most likely you will be given
a transit visa good for 3 days. My recommendation is to travel on to
San Juan del Sur and spend a day or two in this incredible town and then
cross the border into Costa Rica. San Juan del Sur is only 45 minutes
from the Costa Rican border; it is truly a fantastic place!
Learned Lessons
The officials at the border will ask you what your final destination is for
the day, then they will indicate it on your Tarjeta De Turismo.
This is not your final destination for the trip through Nicaragua, it is your
destination for the day that you enter Nicaragua. Regardless of where you are
going, tell them Penas Blancas at the Costa Rican border. I told the officer
at the Honduran-Nicaraguan border that I was traveling to Managua that day.
Thus Managua was written as my final destination for the day of entry on my
Tarjeta De Turismo. When I was stopped about one hour north of San Juan del
Sur, the officer told me that I must go back to Managua and receive permission
to travel past Managua that day.
After some discussion and a small donation, I was allowed to proceed. Check
your paperwork before you leave the Nicaraguan border and make sure that the
officer writes down the city that you indicate. Games, games and more games!
Special Directions
Driving away from the Honduran border you will encounter little civilization.
There are few places to eat until you arrive to Managua, thus fill your stomach
and tanks near the border. But don't eat too much because the roads leading
to Managua are horrible, be prepared for a rough ride.
Driving Time: 3 hours
Kilometers: 141
Miles: 88
Hwy: CA 1 - CA 2
When entering Managua stay on the straight-away and follow the signs to Central.
About 10 minutes after entering the city you will come across a sign that reads
Jinotepe CA 2. Steer left, this is the road you want. Follow this road until
you meet with a traffic circle. Follow the traffic circle around and exit UNI-UNAN.
There is a large sign, you can't miss it. This road will eventually lead out
of town and on to the road for Penas Blancas and San Juan del Sur.
* Please note that the Interamerican Hwy changes from CA 1 to CA 2 until
the border with Costa Rica.
The exit for San Juan del Sur is about 10 minutes past Rivas. From the
main road it's another 18K to the coastal town. Follow the road all the
way to the beach. If you have come this far, please don't miss San Juan
del Sur, it's one of the most beautiful places along the entire trip.
Take a hike along the coast in either direction, there are some fabulous
tidal pools. There is also some decent surf at the river mouth, just
ask the locals.
Hotel & Eats
Casa Internacional Joxi is a half block from the beach and has great service
and food. John, the Norwegian owner, offers fax, telephone and Internet services
to his guests. He has rooms with air conditioning and private baths for $15
US. This town offers great seafood, a large lobster dinner will cost you
about $7 US. There are several restaurants located on the beach, enjoy yourself!
The people are eager to speak of their experiences and they are very friendly.
The Costa Rican border is 24k past Rivas. The road is horrible, it takes
about one hour to reach the border from Rivas or San Juan del Sur.
Learned Lessons
In Managua at the traffic circle follow the signs to UNI -UNAN. The signs do
not indicate Jinotape CA 2 anywhere. This is a puzzling spot so make sure
you make the correct turn-off.
Special Directions
For some peculiar reason CA 1 becomes CA 2 between Managua and the Costa Rican
border. Again, it's always better to use cities as references, the road signs
and road numbers mean very little to the local people.
If you thought entering Nicaragua was difficult, you are in for a surprise
because exiting is even more of a headache. Again you will need a guide.
Any of the teenagers will do, cost for a guide will run about $6 US.
There are various stops you need to make. One with Migration $1 US, one
with the transit police $2 US, and one with the Aduana.
The Aduana official will request your paperwork and then send you down
the road for copies of your passport, car title and driver's license.
Once all the copies are delivered and the official finishes recording,
stamping and officiating, you are on your way. Show you paperwork to
the guards at the exit gate and proceed to the Costa Rican border entry
4k down the road.
The Costa Rican border is 24k past Rivas. The road is horrible, it takes about
one hour to reach the border from Rivas or San Juan del Sur.
Learned Lessons
These exit procedures take about 1-2 hours. Plan accordingly, you need time
to process your paperwork on the Costa Rican side. The roads leading to and
away from the border are very bad, so drive carefully.
Exchange your money on the Costa Rican side, the rates are better. It is also
helpful to have extra copies of your passport, car title and driver's license
- the officials will ask for them when you exit Nicaragua.
Special Directions
You will be approached by several kids that will want to watch your car. Pick
one and let him know he is responsible, $1 US.
Managua
The capital of Nicaragua is spread across the southern shore of Lago de Managua
and is crowded with more than a quarter of Nicaragua's population. It's been
racked by natural disasters, including two earthquakes this century, and
since the 1972 earthquake the city has had no center. Those returning to
Managua after a few years will notice marked changes. An improving economy
has produced a construction boom. It will be obvious, however, that the recovering
economy has not benefited everyone, as poverty is still widespread.
Several of Managua's attractions stand around the Plaza de la República,
including the lakeside municipal cathedral, which has been reconditioned with
help from foreign donors and is now open to the public. Near the cathedral
is the recently renovated Palacio Nacional, which has two giant paintings of
Augusto Sandino and Carlos Fonseca at the entrance.
The Huellas de Acahualinca museum houses the ancient footprints of people
and animals running toward the lake from a volcanic eruption. The Museo
de la Revolución has interesting historical exhibits with an emphasis
on the revolutionary struggle of this century. There are also several
lagunas, or volcanic crater lakes, which are popular swimming spots.
Barrio Martha Quezada is a residential district with many simple, cheap
guesthouses and places to eat. This is where backpackers tend to congregate.
On weekends there's dancing and partying around Plaza 19 de Julio.
Around Managua
The large volcano at the center of Parque Nacional Volcán Masaya National
Park , which still steams and belches, is surrounded by smaller volcanoes and
thermal springs. Legends say that the Indians used to throw young women into
the boiling lava to appease Chaciutique, the goddess of fire. The Spanish believed
it was the entrance to hell, inhabited by devils. Entrance to the park is only
14 miles (23km) southeast of Managua.
The Laguna de Xiloá, a stunning crater lake 12 miles (20km) northwest
of the city, is a favorite swimming spot. At El Trapiche, 11 miles (17km)
southeast of the city, water from natural springs has been channeled
into large outdoor pools surrounded by gardens and restaurants.
León
León is traditionally the most liberal of Nicaragua's cities and remains
the radical and intellectual center of the country. Monuments to the revolution,
including bold Sandinista murals, are dotted all over town, and many buildings
are riddled with bullet holes. Though scarred by earthquakes and war, the city
is resplendent with many fine colonial churches and official buildings. Its
streets are lined with old Spanish-style houses that have white adobe walls,
red-tiled roofs, thick wooden doors and cool garden patios. Its cathedral is
the largest in Central America and features huge paintings of the Stations
of the Cross by Antonio Sarria as well as the tomb of poet Rubén Darío.
The Galería de Héroes y Mártires has a display that includes
photos of those who died fighting for the FSLN during the 1978-79 revolution.
The Caribbean Coast
Unlike the rest of Nicaragua, the Caribbean coast was never colonized: It remained
a British protectorate until the late 1800s. The only part of the rain forest-covered
coast usually visited by travelers is Bluefields, but some visitors also
head out to the Corn Islands (Islas del Maíz). The journey from Managua
to Bluefields involves a five-hour boat trip down the Río Escondido.
Bluefields' mix of ethnic groups - including Indians (Miskitos, Ramas and
Sumos), blacks and mestizos from the rest of Nicaragua - makes it an interesting
place, and the people here definitely like to have a good time; there are
several reggae clubs and plenty of dancing on the weekends.
Granada
Granada, nicknamed 'La Gran Sultana' is reference to its Moorish namesake in
Spain, is Nicaragua's oldest Spanish city. Founded in 1524 by conquistadores,
it rumps up against the imposing Volcán Mombacho on the the northwest
shore of Lake Nicaragua. With its access to the Caribbean Sea via the lake
and the San Juan River, Granada has always been a main trade center. Today
the town is relatively quiet and a major literary center, and retains its
colonial character. It's a wonderful walking city, with most major attractions,
including the Cathedral and Parque Colón, within a few blocks of the
plaza. When you're ready to cool off, the lake is only a 15-minute walk away.
The Assumption of Mary (August 15) is the town's biggest party day.
Nicaragua is the largest country in Central America. It's bordered to
the north by Honduras, to the south by Costa Rica, to the east by the
Caribbean Sea and to the west by the Pacific Ocean. The country has three
distinct geographic regions: the Pacific lowlands, the north-central
mountains and the Caribbean lowlands, also called the Mosquito Coast
or Mosquitía. The fertile Pacific lowlands are interrupted by
about 40 volcanoes, and dominated by Lago de Nicaragua, which is the
largest lake in Central America. The Mosquito Coast is a sparsely populated
rain forest area and the outlet for many of the large rivers originating
in the central mountains. To date, 17% of the country has been given
national-park status.
Lago de Nicaragua supports unusual fish, including the world's only
freshwater sharks, as well as a huge variety of bird life. The cloud-
and rain forest in the northwest contain abundant wildlife including
ocelots, warthogs, pumas, jaguars, sloths and spider monkeys. Avian life
in the forests is particularly rich: The cinnamon hummingbird, ruddy
woodpecker, stripe-breasted wren, elegant trogon, shining hawk and even
the quetzal, the holy bird of the Maya, can all be seen. The jungles
on the Caribbean coast contain trees that grow up to almost 200ft (60m)
high and are home to boas, anacondas, jaguars, deer and howler monkeys.
Nicaragua's climate varies according to altitude. The Pacific lowlands are
always extremely hot, but the air is fresh and the countryside green during
the rainy season (May to November); the dry season (December to April) brings
winds that send clouds of brown dust across the plains. The Caribbean coast
is hot and wet; it can rain heavily even during the brief dry season (March
to May). The mountains of the north are much cooler than the lowlands.
Nicaragua was devastated by Hurricane Mitch in November 1998, when more than
a year's worth of rain fell in in just seven days. A series of violent earthquakes
and volcanic eruptions in the fall of 1999 didn't help the situation much. 
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